Adventure
seekers always find new ways to answer the call of the wild.
As the song says, they ‘head out on the highway’.
In search of extreme adventure, seven 640 cc and one 950 cc KTM
Adventure
motorcycles made in Austria embarked on their maiden commercial
journey to Mount Kailash and the Everest Base Camp in Tibet on
May 7, 2004. The trip was to last until 25 May.
Josef Pilcher,
a veteran of the journey led the trip riding the newly launched
950
cc KTM Adventure. In accompaniment was his wife
Renate, a keen photographer, she would be making the promotional
photos and videos for KTM.
On a glorious morning of May 7 th, we set out from Kathmandu
to Nagarkot and then on to Kodari on the 8 th. The bikers
are greeted with bewilderment and awe at every stop. We quickly
get accustomed to these huge gatherings. The ride through
the lush green and beautiful Nepalese countryside is exhilarating.
Crossing over to Zhangmu, we head off to Nyalam (3750 m).
The riders’ skills are now being put to test, driving
through uneven high altitude mountainous terrain for the
first time. We were now above 3,500 m. and heading for higher
ground.
From Nyalam, the ascent begins over the desert-like landscape
and our climb to an altitude of 5,050 m. makes the journey
disturbingly more hazardous. However, it is compensated by
the magnificent views of Mount Shishapangma, Mount Gauri Shankar
and others from the Lalun La pass at an altitude of 5,050 m.
The riders brave the strong gusty wind to enjoy the serence
magnificence of the high Tibetan desert plateau, the roof of
the world.
As we leave the main trail and southwest, we pass small wayside
settlements set up by sheep and yak herders, Occasionally,
kiangs (Tibetan wild ass) and antelopes gallop through the
vast expanse.
The Paikutso Lake (4,650 m.) is a beautiful sight of crystal
clear blue waters with the reflection of mountains. Excitement
runs high as we board our motorcycles, truck as well as the
Land Cruiser on the ferry at Saga (4,300 m.) and cross the
Brahmaputra River or the Yarlung Tsangpo (local name). This
great river along with the Indus, the Sutlej, and the Karnali,
all have their source in the Mount Kailash region.
From Saga we cross from one valley into another braving the
dusty dirt track at a hundred kilometers per hour. Sometimes
the passing vehicles raise so much dust that it becomes impossible
to see anything ahead that we stop and wait for the dust to
settle. We cross the Mayum-La pass at 5,200 m. and head off
to Darchen with glimpses of holy Mount Kailash.
Mount Kailash (6,741 m.) or Khang Rimpoche (Jewel of The Snow)
is the most sacred of holy mountains in Tibet and is considered
the spiritual and physical center of the universe. It is a
mountain of the highest significance not only for Buddhists
and Hindus but also to the Jain and shamanistic Tibetan Bon
Po religion.
Leaving behind Darchen, we head for the second most religious
sight ninety kilometers beyond – to Lake Mansarovar (4,560
m.) the highest body of fresh water in the world. Enjoying
a rare opportunity for luxury, we take a long warm soak in
the Hot Spring bath-house and rid ourselves of the dust in
our bodies.
From Lake Mansarovar we return to Saga and then head to Lhatse
on the newly graveled highway crossing no less than seven passes
that range between 4,450 and 5,220 meters. This is the green
belt area of Tibet and we come across many farmers ploughing
their fields with the help of yaks, bulls and horses. From
Lhatse we head west and then turn north via the Gyatso La pass
(5,200 m,) to Rongbuk Monastery and the North Base Camp of
Mount Everest. The view of Mount Everest is magnificent and
we are more than pleased to learn that it is the first clear
day in about a week. The setting sun is beautiful and not even
the strong wind and evening chill can take away the pleasures
of this awesome spectacle. (Note: As per the new rule, vehicles
are not permitted to travel beyond Rongbuk but should one want
to visit the Everest Base Camp, there is a horse carriage shuttle
service from Rongbuk at Yuan 30 per person.
We realize that our dream has been fulfilled as we rejoice
and toast with Tibetan butter tea in celebration of a successful
trip and prepare ourselves for the return journey to Kathmandu.
The return is a joyous one full of excitement and a sense of
achievement after having safely completed 2,500 kilometers
in one of the harshest climatic conditions in the world, or
as one participant put it, ‘the toughest enduro of the
world.’
This trip was promoted by Siegfried Mayer and Kinley Tshering
of Himalayan Adventures (Austria and Bhutan), and organized
by Rabi Thapa and Palden Lama of Sacred Summits (P) Ltd., Kathmandu,
Nepal
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